Day 4 of Three Passes – Thame to Lumde
Previous Days: Lukla through Namche Bazaar to Thame
It was supposed to be a short and nice walking day, but because we were walking in the fog for the entire day, it took us more than the 3-4 hours initially scheduled.
The low season downside – there was only one guest house open in the village, called Kongde view. I can highly recommend it. The owner, who was the cook at the same time, prepared us delicious momos and dal bhat. At the same time, it was the first night we both took the pain killers. Altitude started slowly eating us.
Day 5 of Three Passes – Lumde (4300m asl) to Renjo La Pass (5300m asl) to Gokyo (4800m asl)
This is the longest day of the entire Three Passes Trek and the highest altitude gain, if you start the trek clockwise like we did.
After walking in the fog for the last 4 days, the weather started improving and we managed to see the Himalaya mountain scenery. Unfortunately it did not last for a log time and while passing Renjo-La, everything was covered in the clouds again. We were not acclimatised enough, hence Renjo-La was of an extreme difficulty for both of us, especially me. Pawel had to carry my backpack for the last 200 vertical meters.
The headache was with us for the entire evening, until we have eaten some momos and garlic soup in Cho-Oyu guest house in Gokyo. The plan for the next day: stay in the area and acclimatise better, potentially climb Gokyo Ri in the morning.
Day 6 of Three Passes – Gokyo to Thak Nak
We woke up very early to check the weather outside but it did not clear up enough to climb Gokyo-Ri. Gokyo village itself is a beautiful one though, with cote’d azur like lake and we could easily relax there. Despite that and looking at the schedule, we did not want to loose more buffer days and decided to leave towards Cho-La Pass and shorten the way we were supposed to do the next day. We stayed in Thak Nak village, which was nearly 3 hours of walking distance from Gokyo. Again, we were the only hikers/tourists in the entire village 🙂 We had to pass Ngozumba glacier on our way. My headache was slowly going away.
Next Days: Thak Nak to Gorak Shep